Winter in Chatel
Chalet Val D’Abonance is located just outside the French ski resort of Chatel, which is part of the Portes du Soleil ski area, which is the largest ski area in the world, with more than 650km of marked pistes and over 200 lifts spread over 14 valleys.
The highest point in the Portes du Soleil area that is accessible on skis is the Pointe de Mossettes (2,260m) and is located in the adjacent valley to the chalet, easily accessible for a morning coffee with the best views in the area. Skiing and snowboarding above Châtel is extensive and varied, with a good number of beginner slopes, plenty to entertain the intermediate with a large number of reds and an approachable off-piste area, with a small number of black runs for the most advanced. There is a small snowpark for those who like to jump, and a long green road for the littlest members of the family who are just getting their ski legs.
As the slopes in Châtel mostly face in a Northerly direction and are fairly high (up to 2,200m), the snow can be more reliable here than elsewhere in the Porte du Soleil area, and there is an extensive network of snow-making infrastructure to keep the real snow topped up.
Where to ski:
Châtel
Châtel is a village on the border with Switzerland and has two main ski areas: Super Châtel, particularly suitable for beginners, and Linga/Pré La Joux for all skiers up to expert. These areas are linked by chair lift, and the latter has links to Lindarets and Avoriaz.
Avoriaz
Avoriaz is among the largest purpose-built ski destinations in the world, and operates a car-free policy. Including the Lindarets valley, it has skiing suitable for all grades of skiers, has several snow parks, off piste opportunities, and several black runs.
Les Gets
Best reached by road from the chalet, this area is a firm favourite for families, as it has a large number of long, wide runs, suitable for all abilities. It sits a little lower than Chatel and Avoriaz, so is best visited when the snow is heavy and fresh.
Morgins
Just a short hop over the Pas de Morgins by car, this small resort is now serviced by a brand new Telecabine, which gives quick access to some easier, shallower runs that lead, on the Swiss side, into Champoussin and Les Crosets. As it is lower down, it’s best visited when the snow is good.
Les Crosets
Les Crosets is located in a small bowl underneath the routes back into Avoriaz and Lindarets. It has a range of runs suitable for mostly intermediate skiers, with a few approachable black runs and the intimidating “Swiss Wall”, renowned as one of the hardest ski runs in the world.
Champoussin
Another low ski area, this area has some lovely narrow runs of varying difficulty, which are often relatively deserted, even when the main areas around Avoriaz are at their busiest during school holidays. The lifts are not the fastest, but over here, they don’t need to be.
Eating on the mountain
Eating on the mountain around the Portes du Soleil area comes at a premium, like any other mountain area. As you would expect, there are any number of self-service restaurants selling Onion Soup, or Steak Haché and chips, but there are also some gems to be had:
Châtel
In good weather, the terrace at the top of the Super Chatel gondola has a great view overlooking the Abondance Valley, and is attached to a great self-service restaurant. It can have long queues around 1pm though, so early or later visits are a good idea.
If Crepes are more your thing, then La Tane Ô Marmottes, near the Chau des Rosées chairlift serves brilliant sweet and savoury options, and friendly staff.
Lindarets
A favourite for many guests and members is La Refuge des Brochaux, which can be found at the bottom of the Brochaux and Mosettes lifts in lindarets. It does a strong line in crepes, and usually has a very good plat du jour, alongside great omelettes, and the standard mountain lunches. Makes a case for the valley’s best Cappuccino.
Another must-visit is the Cookie Cafe at the top of the Mosettes chair lift, for the best view in the area.
Champoussin
If you fancy a mid-morning cake stop, or a real tasty lunch, then Chez Gabby in Champoussin is an excellent place to stop. It’s not too difficult to find, but has some of the best Tartes au Citron or Tartes au Framboise we’ve ever seen. Has a nice terrace with a superb view, or plenty of room inside in the warm if the weather isn’t up to it.
Run Recommendations
Beginners
There are a host of beginner-appropriate runs in Super Châtel, accessible via gondola from the town itself, or via the Portes du Soleil lift from the car park above Lac Vonnes. This area is quite drag lift heavy though, and so if that’s not your thing, then the blue and green runs in the Pré la Joux area might be a better bet. The Pierre Longue lift, followed by the Chaux des Rosées lift will take you to the top of a very long, easy and rewarding blue run suitable for most beginners. From there, you can take a long green back to the bottom of the valley when you’re done for the day.
If the snow is lying well on the valley floor, you may also wish to visit other ski areas lower down, such as Crêt-Béni accessible from La Chappelle D’Abondance itself. This is usually fairly quiet and can be a really good morning of easy skiing. It’s included in the Châtel Liberté ski pass if you don’t have the full Portes du Soleil pass.
Intermediates
For skiers at home on red runs, there are many options in the Abondance Valley. Particularly gems are the red underneath the Les Combes lift, or a run called La Perdrix Blanche accessible from the Cornebois lift. There are also some brilliant runs in the Lindaret Valley from the top of the Caises, and Brochaux lifts. Other super options can be found in Les Crosets, coming into the village, and if you catch the snow just right, there’s an excellent, steep red from the top of L’Écho Alpin above Linga, although this can be icy, bumpy, or both.
Advanced
There are only a few black runs in the Abondance Valley, Les Renards and Les Rhododendrons above Plaine Dranse being the notable ones. There a few accessible black runs in Les Crosets, for anyone wanting to take their first steps onto a black. There are also a small selection of black runs in Avoriaz, around the Grandes Combes lift. All the black pistes in the area suffer if the snow isn’t good, but there are also plenty of areas where off-piste skiing and ski touring are possible, right across the area.
